Argonaut Island (Ulleung-do)

(English follows the pictures)

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Ulleung Eiland

Laat ek begin deur te sê Ulleung eiland is ’n merkwaardige bestemming. As jy die tyd het, en veral as jy jouself in Korea bevind oor die somer vir ’n geruime tyd, is dit absoluut die moeite werd om te besoek. 

Ulleung is ’n vulkaniese eiland met dramatiese rots-landskappe, pragtige mistige woude, en die kraterlandskap met laslaplanderye, strome en tradisionele plaashuisies is asemrowend mooi. Die hele kus is ’n bewys van die vulkaniese oorsprong van die eiland, met ongelooflike rotsformasies, versteende kolomme, grotte en tonnels. Boonop is die eiland omring met ongelooflike deursigtige donkerblou water, met rots swemgate en wemelende seelewe. Pasop net vir die see egels.

Ulleung is in die See van Japan, of die Oos-see soos die Koreane dit verkies, omtrent 120 km vanaf die ooskus van Suid Korea en het in die Weste bekend gestaan as die Argonaut eiland. Dit is die naaste bewoonde eiland en hawe aan die omstrede eiland bekend as Dokdo (Koreans) of Takeshima (Japanees), in die Weste bekend as Liancourt Rocks. Japan en Korea eis albei die twee rotse as hul gebied. My argument is dat dit nader aan Korea is, met meer Koreaanse besoekers dus… Dit daar gelaat. Wees net voorbereid dat as jy voet op die eiland wil sit, jy ’n verklaring gaan onderteken waarin jy erken dat Dokdo deel van Suid Korea is.

Uiteraard is Ulleung die perfekte bestemming vir staptoere, met gereelde geleenthede om bietjie af te koel in die swemgate. Ons het by die hawe begin en die eiland deurkruis. Sodoende stap jy die buitekant van die vulkaan uit, stap jy deur die mistige woude teen die hange af tot binne in die krater, en deurkruis jy die krater met sy unieke terrein. Hier het jy ook die opsie om eiesoortige wildegroente-disse te eet, en tuisgemaakte ryswyn (makgeolli) te geniet. Jy kan ’n aand in die krater spandeer, of een van die voertuig-paaie uitneem tot by die naaste bushalte en uiteindelik jou akkommodasie. 

Byna die hele kus van die eiland is ook ontwikkel met staproetes, so jy kan die volle omtrek van die eiland stap. Daar is bruë waar nodig, trappe om jou teen die styltes uit te help, natuurlik-gevormde tonnels wat roetes verbind, en stellasies in die kranse ingeslaan sodat jy die adrenalien van meters bo klotsende golwe stap kan ervaar. Daar is ook busse wat eenrigting om die hele eiland ry so jy kan op enige punt ’n roete na die hoofpad uitstap, en dit volg tot by die eerste bushalte, opklim en by jou bestemming uitkom. Wees net bewus van die busdienste se afsnytye.

Dan is daar die toere na Dokdo. Dit is ’n patriotiese tog, wat byna elke patriotiese Koreaan ten minste eenkeer in hul lewens sal wil maak. Dit is egter nie so maklik om te doen nie, en weens seetoestande, vaal amper meer pogings as wat slaag. Beplan dalk dus om die die twee rotse te gaan besoek, maar moet nie te verbaas wees as jou toer gekanselleer word nie. Kostes sal tot sover my kennis strek ten volle terugbetaal word indien dit die geval is. Dit was die geval toe ek gepoog het om hulle te besoek.

As jy belangstel om Ulleung te besoek het jy die opsie om dit saam ’n georganiseerde groep te doen, dis wat ek gedoen het, of self te beplan. Vir die groepe, sluit graag op Facebook aan by ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, 'When In Korea’ of ‘Adventure Korea’, van die groepe is ek die vertroudste met die eerste groep, en ek weet hulle beplan jaarliks ’n langnaweek toer na die eiland. Kostes met die groepe bly relatief laag, als is vir jou beplan, en jy het heelwat keuses van aktiwiteite en vrye teuels om deel te neem aan wat jy wil. Jou tyd op die eiland is net effens beperk.

As die groepe se datums nie vir jou werk nie, of jy wil vir ’n langer duur gaan, moet nie bekommer nie, dit is heel doenbaar. Eerstens moet jy kyk na beskikbaarheid van plek op die veerboot tussen Donghae Terminaal en Ulleung eiland. As jy belangstel om Dokdo te besoek, sal jy uiteraard ook die beskikbaarheid van toere vanaf Ulleung na Dokdo moet bepaal. Sodra jy beskikbare datums het, bespreek maar en moet nie te lank uitstel nie - soos genoem is dit ’n gewilde bestemming vir Koreane, en daar is net soveel plek op die veerbote, toere en gastehuise.

As jou bootkaartjies bespreek is moet akkommodasie jou volgende fokus wees. Soek vir Ulleung Minbaks (Huurkamers), Ulleung Pensions (Huurhuise), hotelle of gastehuise, of beplan om ’n tent te neem en doen navorsing oor kampterreine en geriewe. Bespreek! Onthou, toegang is beperk. Kry gerus die hulp van ’n Koreaanse vriend, kollega of kennis in om die hele proses te vergemaklik - of selfs beter: nooi jou Koreaanse pelle (chingus) saam.

Die laaste bietjie logistiek is net om jou buskaartjie van waarookal jy is tot by Donghae terminaal te bespreek. Ek doen dit gewoonlik in persoon by die bus termine vanwaar ek gaan vertrek, omtrent so week voor my vertrekdatum. Kry jou vriende bymekaar, pak julle rugsakke en gaan verken Ulleung Eiland!

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Foto's / Photos

Die getekende verklaring / The signed declaration

Die hawe / The port

Uitsig vanaf die vulkaan se piek / View from the volcano peak

Mistige woude / Misty Forest

Krater landskap / Crater landscape

Kus staproete / Coastal hiking route

Natuurlike tonnel / Natural tunnel

Blou oseaan / Blue ocean

Kus uitsigte / Coastal views

Vat 'n dip / Take a dip

Verfrissend / Refreshing

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Ulleung Island

Let me just start by saying that Ulleung Island is an amazing destination. If you have the time, especially if you’re staying in Korea for a longer period of time, it is absolutely worth the visit. 

Ulleung is a volcanic island, and with dramatic rock landscapes, mysterious misty woodlands, and the fertile crater basin covered in patchy crops and farmlands, streams, and traditional farmsteads it is breathtakingly beautiful. The whole coast is proof of the volcanic origins of the island, with incredible rock formations, petrified columns, caves and tunnels. In addition the whole island is surrounded by transparent, deep-blue oceans, rock pools ideal for swimming, and plentiful underwater life. Just look out for the sea urchins.

Ulleung is in the sea of Japan, or as the Koreans prefer - the East Sea. It’s about 120 km off the east coast of South Korea and used to be known to westerners as Argonaut Island. It is the closest inhabited island and port to the controversial island known as Dokdo to Koreans, Takeshima to the Japanese, and Liancourt Rocks to westerners. Japan and Korea both claim the rocks to be their territory, the dispute has been unresolved for decades. My argument would be that it’s closer to Korea, has more Korean visitors, thus… But nothing’s that simple. Just be prepared that if you want to set foot on land at Ulleung Island, you’ll have to sign a document stating that you agree that Dokdo is part of Korean Territory.

Naturally Ulleung is the perfect destination for hiking, with its beautiful scenes and frequent opportunities to cool down in rock pools. We started at the port and traversed the island in a semi-straight line. By doing this you’ll hike up the steep volcanic exterior, walk down toward the crater basin through misty forests and cross the crater with its unique terrain. There you’ll have the opportunity to try local wild mountain-vegetable dishes and enjoy homemade rice wine (makgeolli). You could spend the night in the crater, or take one of the main roads out of the basin to a busstop, and catch the bus to your overnight accommodation. 

Added infrastructure has made the whole coast of the island accessible to hikers, so if you had enough time, you could circumnavigate Ulleung and take in all of its vistas. There are bridges where necessary, steps and rails to help you in very steep spots, naturally lava-formed tunnels to connect routes, and platforms fixed to the sides of cliffs, high above crashing waves directly beneath your feet, for your thrill and pleasure. There are busses that drive circular routes around the island, so you can follow an extraction route to the main road at any point, make your way to the nearest busstop and catch a bus to your desired destination. Just be aware of the bus service's cutoff time.

Furthermore there is also the option of doing a tour to Dokdo. It is a trip that every patriotic Korean wil make at least once in their lifetime. It is however not that easy to complete, and due to sea and weather conditions almost more attempts fail than succeed. Plan on taking the tour to the two rocks, but don’t be too surprised if your tour gets cancelled. To my knowledge all costs are refundable if it does. That was the case when we attempted to visit Dokdo.

If you are interested in visiting Ulleung island, you have the option of doing it with an organised group - that’s what I did, or planning it by yourself. For group tours, go onto Facebook and join ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, ‘When in Korea’, and ‘Adventure Korea’. I’m most familiar with Seoul Hiking Group, and I am sure that they plan a longweekend trip to the Island every year. Costs with these groups remain relatively low, everything is planned for you, but you have a lot of activity options and leeway. Your time on the island is just a little limited.

If the groups’ dates don’t fit your schedule, or you intend to spend more time on the island, don’t fret, it is completely possible to plan it yourself. First of all you should look at the availability of seats on the ferry between Donghae port and Ulleung Island. If you are interested in visiting Dokdo, you’ll naturally have to look at tour availability for that as well. As soon as you find dates that fit your schedule - book! As mentioned, it is a popular destination among Koreans, and there is limited room on the ferry, tours and guesthouses.

If your tickets for the boats are booked, accommodation is your next priority. Search online for Ulleung Minbaks (Rooms for rent), Ulleung Pensions (Houses for rent), hotels and guesthouses, or plan on taking a tent and do research on campsites. Once again - reserve! Remember, access is limited. Don’t hesitate to ask a Korean friend, colleague, or acquaintance for help - or even better: invite your Korean pals (chingus) to join you.

Krater bodem / Crater basin

The last logistical task you need to complete, is buying a bus ticket to Donghae terminal from wherever you will be departing. I usually do it in person at the bus terminal of my departure, a week or two prior to my departure. Get your friends together, pack your backpacks, and go explore Ulleung Island!

Deur die Geel See / Crossing the Yellow Sea

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Ek was al skaars 2 maande in Korea en ek was lus om bietjie meer as net my dorp te verken. Die enigste hindernis was die feit dat ek nog nie ’n selfoon, bankrekening of Suid Koreaanse ID-dokument gehad nie, o ja, en dat ek feitlik geen Koreans kon praat, lees of verstaan nie. Dit het beteken dat as ek wou reis ek noukeurig moes beplan, en niks beter verkeerd loop nie. Dis mos maklik!

’n Vriend en ek het afgespreek dat ons saam na die eerste fees van die seisoen sou gaan. Dit vind plaas heel aan die Suide van die land op ’n klein eilandjie genaamd Jindo. Dit staan bekend as die “Jindo Sea Parting Festival”. Jy’t reg gelees, see skeiding, soos met Moses en die Israeliete. 

Dit is nou nie ’n bonatuurlike verskynsel soos die in die Bybel nie, vir hierdie een is daar wel ’n logiese verduideliking. Dit is eintlik net ’n baie lae gety wat as gevolg van die maan se wenteling en afstand selfs laer as ’n gewone lae gety is. The fenomeen duur vir omtrent ’n week of so, maar die Saterdag van die fees is dit veronderstel om die laagste te wees, laag genoeg dat mens op droë grond vanaf die strand vir byna ’n kilometer die see in tot by ’n nabygeleë eilandjie kan stap en terug. Wie sal nie so iets wil beleef nie?

Dit is toe afgespreek, ek en my vriend gaan Jindo toe. Daar is egter die klein kwessie dat ons twee 5 ure per bus van mekaar af woon en dinge fyn moes beplan om mekaar op die bushalte in Jindo te kry. Hy het omtrent ’n week voor my in Korea arriveer, en ek dink hy het dalk net ’n foon gekry, maar dit help nie rerig as ek nie ook een het nie.

Ons busritte het toe darem uitgewerk en toe ek die Vrydag aand by Jindo se bushalte aankom het hy reeds daar vir my gewag. Met die hulp van sy splinternuwe slimfoon se kaart toepassing het ons ook vinnig ons hotel gevind en was ons gereed om te verken!

Saterdag het vinnig aangebreek en dit was tyd vir die fees om te begin. Daar was ’n paar dinge van die fees wat ek nie heeltemal verwag het nie. Eerstens het ek nie verwag dat daar soveel mense sou wees nie, letterlike duisende. Tweedens het ek ook nie gedink daar gaan ’n man in outydse kleed, sandale, lang grys baard en boonop met ’n staf in sy hand aan die voorpunt van ’n  skare mense staan nie. Agter hom was musikante met simbale, dromme, trompette, en klokkies, ook geklee in outydse drag. Dit was sowaar ’n viering van die destydse deurtog van die Israeliete deur die Rietsee.

Korea is ’n baie gelowige nasie, en toegewyd tot die verskillende gelowe wat hul daar beoefen, so dit maak seker sin dat as daar ’n droë pad deur die see oop maak, hulle hul geloof daaraan sal koppel. Ek wonder nogal by myself watse simboliese uittog hul vier tydens die fees, of is dit ’n toekomstige uitkoms vir die land, wanneer Noord en Suid kan herenig, wat hul wil voorstel.

Dit daar gelaat. Ons is agter die “Israeliete” aan, see in, al die pad tot by die einlandjie. Daar het ons ’n oomblik gehad om ons deurtog te vier, voor ons maar weer moes terug deur die Geel see, voordat die gety inkom en ons daar halfpad betrap. ’n Honderd meter voordat ons terug is op die vasteland het die gety sterk begin inkom, die water was ysig koud en het mens se voete byna dadelik laat kramp. Die water het die ongelyke klippe toegespoel en die vordering nog bemoeilik, ek het op die ou-end kuit-diep deur die ysige water gesukkel voordat ek teen ’n paar hoër rotse uitgeklim en droë grond bereik het.

Al wat nou nog voorgelê het was ’n beker lekker koffie, lekker warem Koreaanse kos wat eie is aan die streek en tuur na die eiland en die see, waar die pad ’n rukkie gelede oopgelê het. Hierdie geleentheid was net ’n voorskou van als wat hierdie klein landjie als gehad het om te bied.

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Die Musikante / The Musicians

Die droë weg / The dry path

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I had only been in Korea for a little shy of 2 months, and I wanted to explore a little farther than just my own town. The only obstacle to my exploring was the fact that I still didn’t have a phone, bank account, or Korean Alien Registration Card, oh and my lack of Korean language skills. That meant that if I wanted to travel, planning would be of utmost importance, and if anything went wrong I would proverbially be screwed. No big deal!

A friend and I agreed to go to the first festival of the season together. It would take place at the very South-West tip of South Korea on an Island named Jindo. The festival is known as the “Jindo Sea Parting Festival”. Yes, you read that right, sea parting, like with Moses and the Israelites!

It’s not a supernatural occurrence like in the Bible though, there was a perfectly logical explanation for the sea parting at Jindo. It’s basically just a really low tide, caused by the Moon’s orbit of earth the tide would be much lower than usual. This phenomenon lasts for a week or so, but on the Saturday of the festival it was supposed to be very low, enough so that a dry path of about a kilometre would open up between Jindo and a tiny island off its coast. Who would want to miss an opportunity like this?

Agreed, my friend and I would go to Jindo. There was however another little issue - we lived 5 hours by bus away from each other and would not be able to travel together, but would have to meet there. So things would have to be planned really well. He had arrived in Korea about a week before I did, so by that time he had just gotten a phone, but that didn’t help us since I didn’t have one.

The bus schedules eventually worked out quite well, and when I arrived at the bus terminal in Jindo on Friday night, he had already been waiting there for me. With the help of his smartphone’s maps we were able to then easily find our hotel.

Saturday had arrived and it was time for the festival to start. I don’t know exactly what I expected to see at the festival, but there were some things I didn’t expect. Firstly, I didn’t expect so many people, literally thousands of festival goers. Secondly, I did not expect to see a man, clad in a robe and sandals, sporting a long grey beard and holding a wooden staff, to lead the procession through the sea. On his heels were a group of musicians with cymbals, drums, trumpets, and bells, also wearing robes and sandals. It was actually a reenactment of the Israelites' crossing of the Red Sea.

Korea is quite a religious nation, and very devout, regardless which religion they practice, so it probably makes sense that if a dry path opens up through the sea it would get connected to religion in one form or the other. I then started to wonder what symbolism this crossing held for the people taking part in the procession, was it a celebration of deliverance they had experienced, or a prayer for deliverance they stilled longed for, maybe reunification?

Enough about that. We followed the “Israelites” into the sea, all the way to the little island. Once there we had a short moment to celebrate our crossing of the Yellow Sea before we had to start walking back to the coast, lest we get caught by the incoming tide. About a hundred metres from the coast the tide started coming in fast, the water was freezing and almost immediately caused one’s feet to cramp up and go numb. The water started covering the uneven path, making progress even slower. I eventually walked calf-deep in the icy water until I could clamber up a higher rock and walk onto dry land.

All that remained to do then was to get a nice hot mug of coffee, hot local Korean food, and to gaze over at the island and the ocean where, just a short while ago, a dry path had lain. This festival was just a preview to what amazing adventures and sites this little country has to offer.

Kan jy Amerikaans praat? / Can you speak American?

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Dit was die jaar 2012 en vir die afgelope jaar het ek alreeds voorbereidings getref om in Suid Korea te gaan Engels gee. Ek het ’n TEFL (Teaching English as Foreign Language) sertifikaat aanlyn verwerf en al my dokumentasie vir die Visum-aansoek gereed gehad. Nog net een ding het geskort, en dit was ’n werk in Suid Korea.

Ek het reeds in Augustus 2011 aansoek gedoen gehad by EPIK (English Program In Korea), maar toe die tyd aanbreek vir my Skype onderhoud was my Engelse aksent té Brits vir die onderhoudvoerder en was ek dus onverstaanbaar (vir haar). Dit het my werwer stomgeslaan dat ek nie loshande die pos gekry het nie. Hy verduidelik toe dat Koreane maar sukkel met Engels en slegs Amerikaanse Engelse aksente verstaan. Sy voorstel vir my volgende onderhoud was dus dat ek ’n Amerikaanse aksent moet namaak!

Ek het nog nooit eers gedink aan die verskil tussen Amerikaanse Engels en Britse Engels nie, ek verstaan mos albei ewegoed. Ek meen ons hoor albei op TV, studeer Britse Engels in skool, praat met hoeveel verskillende aksente in Suid-Afrika met mekaar Engels; Engels was vir my Engels, maak nie saak hoe dit verskillend klink nie. Dus moes ek bietjie navorsing doen.

Ek het my dadelik gewend na die ‘beste' platform vir linguistieke navorsing wat ek aan kon dink - YouTube. Ek het die soekfunksie gebruik en ingetik: “American English Accent.” Die resultate was legio, so ek het maar bo begin en op die boonste skakel gekliek. Die video het die verskil tussen die klank van die vokaal “a” in Britse en Amerikaanse Engels beklemtoon. O ja, “dênce" en nie “dance" nie, “cên’t" en nie “can’t" nie! Goed, “ê, ê, ê.”

Die tweede skakel was vir my seker die hulpvaardigste en by verre die vermaaklikste! Dit was ’n skets van Casper de Vries, waar hy verwys na “Americans”. In die video lug hy ’n paar maklike wyses uit om soos ’n Amerikaner te klink, en ek het hulle almal geoefen, dit lui soos volg:

Eerstens, moet nooit sê “Yes” of “Yah” nie, gebruik in stede “Yeah” soos “Jêê-ah!” Dit is ook nie “Awesome” nie, maar wel “Aah-sum”.

Tweedens het hy gesê dit sal ’n mens baat om hardlywig te klink wanneer mens woorde soos “problem” sê, dus “praaah-blem”.

Laastens moet mens nie vergeet om mens se lippe om te krul en die “r” te aksentueer nie, en dus “shurrrre” te sê vir “sure”.

Ek het aantekeninge gemaak en seker gemaak dat ek een van hierdie truuks in elkeen van my onderhoud vrae sou kon gebruik. My volgende onderhoud was reeds vir die volgende middag geskeduleer, en siende dat die internetkonneksie maar stadig is in die platteland waar ek gewoon het, sou die onderhoud oor die telefoon geskied.

Dit is min of meer hoe die gesprek (in kort) afgeloop het:

Koreaan: “Hi Egbert, are you doing well?”

Ek: “Yeah, I’m fine thanks, and yourself?”

Koreaan: “Also good. I want to check if you would be able to start working by March 1st?”

Ek: “Shurrre! I can do that.”

K: “The students at our school are low level students, would you be willing to teach low level students?”

Ek: “Of course, no praaah-blem!”

K: “The apartment we prepared for you was the previous teacher’s, and it is somewhat furnished, is that ok with you?”

Ek: “Yeah, thats aah-sum, thank you so much.”

K: “Thank you for the interview. The starting date is March 1st, and we will let you know soon if you got the job.”

Ek: ”Aaah-sum, thats grreat, I cênt wait to hearr back from you. Thank you for your time.”

Die truuks het gewerk, of hulle was dalk regtig desperaat om iemand betyds te kry, want 5 minute later het ’n e-pos met die kontrak, Visum-uitnodiging en ander besonderhede deurgekom.

Twee weke later was ek in Suid Korea, ek het wel vinnig geleer dat die lang pad van kommunikasie probleme nou aangebreek het. My eerste gesprek met my mede-onderwyser het nie so glad verloop nie. Sy’t byna glad nie verstaan wat ek vra nie. In stede van “ske-jewel” het ek “schedule” gesê, ek moes op die ou-end my sin herhaal en eerder die woord “timetable” gebruik. Na ek “classroom” gebruik het moes ek myself korrigeer met “clêssroom”. Na ek ’n paar keer met “Yah” geantwoord het, wou sy weet of dit dieselfde as “Yeah” beteken. 

Dit was maar net die begin, want die stryd van Amerikaanse spelling gebruik om die kinders in die klas te leer, en om woorde soos, “boot”, “bonnet”, en “coriander” te vervang met “trunk”, “hood”, en “cilantro” het nog vir my voorgelê. Vir 5 jaar het ek dit gedoen, en nou praat ek ’n Engels wat enigiemand sal verwar oor waar ek vandaan kom, maar ek dink amper enigiemand sal kan verstaan.
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The year is 2012 and I had already been preparing to teach English in South Korea. I had already acquired a TEFL (Teach English as Foreign Language) certificate, and prepared all my documentation for the Visa application. The only thing that was still missing was a teaching job in South Korea.

In August 2011 I had applied at EPIK (English Program in Korea), but after having the Skype interview I was informed that my English accent was too British and that the interviewer had a difficult time understanding me. It left my recruiter stunned, as he thought that I was a great candidate. He explained to me that Koreans are used to American pronunciations, and often find it really hard to understand other accents. So, he suggested that I should fake an American accent for my next interview.

I had never even thought about the difference between American and British English, I understand both equally well. Coming from South Africa we are immersed in both, you hear both on TV and radio, we study British English at school, and people speak in such a variety of accents across South Africa that to me it was all just English, didn’t matter how different they sounded I understood it all the same. That meant that I had to do some more research before attempting to fake an American accent.

Don’t be too impressed though. I immediately jumped to the first best platform for linguistic research that came to mind - YouTube. In the search bar I typed in the following: “American English Accent.” There were a plethora of results, so I started at the top and clicked on the first video link. It was quite helpful and focused on the difference of the short vowel sound “a” in American and British English. Oh yes, now I remember, It’s “dance” not “dahnce”, “can’t” and not “cahn’t”. Alright, take note and apply!

The second link was by far the most helpful, and definitely the most entertaining. It was a comedy sketch by a South African comedian named Casper de Vries titled “Americans”. In his video he referred to a couple of easy ways to ensure you sound American; and I practiced and used them all, as follows:

Firstly, never say “Yes” or “Yah”, use “Yeah” (with a thick drawl) in stead. For the word awesome don’t pronounce it as “Ossum” like the Brits do, but say “Aah-sum”.

Secondly, it would be to one’s benefit to sound constipated when pronouncing words like “problem”, eg. “praah-blem” (add thick drawl).

Lastly, don’t forget to push your lips out and apart and accentuate the “r”, as in “shurrre” for “sure”.

I wrote down all the notes and made sure that I would be able to use every little trick in my interview answers to sound American. My next interview had already been scheduled for the next afternoon, and seeing that the internet connection was too slow, it would be a phone interview, which would furthermore count in my favor, because no one would see how ridiculous I looked while trying to sound American.

In short, the interview went something like this:

Interviewer: “Hi Egbert, are you doing well?”

Me: “Yeah, I’m fine thanks, and yourself?”

Interviewer: “Also good. I want to check if you would be able to start working by March 1st?”

Me: “Shurrre! I can do that.”

I: “The students at our school are low level students, would you be willing to teach low level students?”

M: “Of courrse, no praaah-blem!”

I: “The apartment we prepared for you was the previous teacher’s, and it is somewhat furnished, is that ok with you?”

M: “Yeah, thats aah-sum, thank you so much.”

I: “Thank you for the interview. The starting date is March 1st, and we will let you know soon if you got the job.”

M: ”Aaah-sum, thats grreat, I can’t wait to hearr back from you. Thank you for your time.”

My methods must’ve worked - or they were just desperate to fill the position in time. 5 minutes after the interview I received an email with the contract, Visa-invitation and other details attached. I was finally going to South Korea.

Two weeks later I found myself in South Korea and, as I quickly found out, at the start of a long series of communication issues. My first conversation with my co-teacher didn’t go smoothly at all. She almost didn’t understand a single one of my questions. In stead of “ske-jewel” I pronounced it as “Shedual”, and I had to eventually rephrase my question asking for my timetable in stead. After asking about my “classroom” (British) I had to switch over to “classroom” (American) before she could produce an answer. After answering with a short “Yah” a couple of times, she enquired if “Yah” means the same as “Yeah” or “Yes”.

That was only the beginning, because the battle of American spelling in the classroom and substituting words like “boot”, “bonnet” and “coriander” with “trunk”, “hood” and “cilantro” all still lay ahead. I kept on going like this for 5 years, and now I speak a type of English that would confuse anyone as to where I’m from, but I’m rarely misunderstood!