Boracay & Palawan

(English below photos)

__________________________________________________________________

Fantastiese Filippyne

As ek die oomblik of trip moet uitwys waar die reis-gogga oftewel die backpacker-gogga my gebyt het, is dit my eerste reis Filippyne toe. In Januarie 2013 het ek en twee vriende met rugsakke op ons ruë op ’n vliegtuig Manila toe vertrek. Ons bestemmings het ingesluit:

Manila - ons het slegs ons eerste aand in the Filippyne en tyd tussen vlugte hier spandeer. Na 1 jaar se woon in klein dorpies in Suid Korea was ons eerste prioriteit westerse kos, en Manila het voorsien. As jy op reis is in Asië,  jy lus is vir iets wat meer bekend voel en proe, en jy bevind jouself in Manila moet jy die Mall of Asia besoek.

Puerto Princesa, Palawan - hier vind jy een van die nuut(nie-meer-so-nuut)-verkose Nuwe 7 Natuurlike Wêreld Wonders, naamlik die Puerto Princesa Ondergrondse Rivier. Dit is wel ’n ongelooflike geologiese bestemming, maar as ’n besienswaardigheid skiet dit vir my effens kort. Jy wag vreeslik lank voordat jy op ’n kano op die rivier onder die eiland in kan vaar. Dit raak egter soos verwag kan word vinnig pikdonker, en binnekort word jou sig beperk tot dit wat jou toergids met die kollig vir jou uitwys. Daar is paar rotsformasies wat hul kreatief benoem het, en die gidse is regtig pittig en vermaaklik, maar as jy gedruk is vir tyd kan jy maar liefs verby hou en meer tyd in die ongelooflike riwwe om die eiland spandeer. 

El Nido - van Puerto Princesa af is dit ’n ses-ure minibus rit op die gepas-genoemde “Abortion Road”; en glo my, die skud op die pad is so erg as wat die naam insinueer. Die eindbestemming is egter absoluut die moeite werd, so neem maar jou naarpilletjies, en slaan maar ontbyt oor, maar moet nie El Nido misloop nie. Dit is nou nog my nommer een bestemming in Asië. Ek verneem daar is ook bote wat El Nido toe vaar, die weer is egter onvoorspelbaar, en ’n medium-sterkte wind kan die vaart veel erger as die minibus rit maak. El Nido is bekend vir pragtige strande, kalksteen eilande en die feit dat dit nie stampvol met toergroepe is nie. Daar is verskeie dagekskursies en elkeen van hulle is onvergeetlik. Die water is pragtig skoon, daar is heelwat vis te sien en die plaaslike mense is baie vriendelik. Scooters is ook te huur vir ’n appel en ’n ei om die nabygeleë strande en dorpies te besoek.

Boracay - is seker die bekendste en gewildste bestemming in die Filippyne, en met goeie rede. Die strande is spierwit, met idiliese palmbome, seilbootjies, pragtige blou branders en onbeskryflike sonsondergange. Ek wil net weer beaam - die sonsondergange in Boracay is onvergelykbaar! Daar is heelwat aktiwiteite om van te kies en te keur, dag en nag. Dié eiland slaap nie, so boek maar ’n slaapplek wat bietjie weg is van al die aksie af. Die enigste negatiewe punt is wel dat gewildheid gepaard gaan met kommersialiseering en groot skare toeriste wat daagliks daarheen stroom. Ek sal egter nie dat dit my ontmoedig om te gaan nie, maak net seker jy bespreek rustiger bestemmings ook om dit uit te balanseer.

Ek moet net kortliks byvoeg dat Filippynse kos nie teleurstel nie. Hulle geroosterde vark, hoender en vis is verskriklik lekker, en is iets wat ek selfs leer kook het omdat ek so gereeld daarna verlang. Ek kan ook nie versuim om te noem dat die verskeidenheid eksotiese vrugte jou sal stomslaan nie, en teen die prys waarteen jy dit kan bekom kan jy definitief bekostig om alles te probeer.

 

Buiten die asemrowende skoonheid van die Filippyne, en die geurige kos, moet ek net soveel, as nie meer eer gee aan die gasvrye mense van die land nie. Ek het teen nou al heelwat meer getoer as destyds toe ek vir die eerste keer in die Filippyne was, en ek het sedertdien ’n tweede besoek aan ander gedeeltes van die Filippyne afgelê.  Ek staan egter steeds by my eerste indrukke, die mense is besonders. As jy hou van toer en mense van die land ontmoet en tuis wil voel tussen hulle, sal die Filippyne presies dit oplewer. Tydens ons besoek aan El Nido het ons ’n lekker knus, onstpanne kroeg gevind om elke aand by uit te span. Elke aand was daar ’n “Open Mic” aand, en toevallig het dieselfde groepie mense elke keer kom sing. Ons het begin liedjies versoek, en hulle het elke liedjie, nuut of oud, sonder enige probleem opgevoer. Teen die tweede aand is ons met ons aankoms by die kroeg oor die mikrofoon verwelkom, en het ons na die opvoering met die musikante gekuier. Op ons derde aand is ons genooi om die komende naweek saam met hulle te kajak en te gaan kamp op ’n nabygeleë en onbewoonde eiland. Nie as kliënte nie, maar as vriende. Na net vier dae in El Nido het ek soortgelyke bande gebou met mense by byna elke onderneming waar ek al gehandel het. 

Doen jouself ’n guns en besoek die Filippyne! Verken soveel as moontlik van die pragtige land, maar bestee genoeg tyd aan die ongelooflike mense wat dit hul tuiste noem.

_______________________________________________________________________

Foto's / Photos

Puerto Princesa rivier / Puerto Princesa River

El Nido Strand / El Nido Beachfront 

Groot Lagoon El Nido / Big Lagoon El Nido

Snorkel / Snorkeling

Ons musikant vriende / Our musician friends

Boracay Strand / Boracay Beach

Boracay sonsondergang / Boracay sunset

Boracay nagte / Boracay nights

________________________________________________________________________

Fantastic Philippines

If someone were to ask me to point out the moment the travel-bug, or backpacking-bug rahter, bit me, I would have to answer that it was on my first trip to the Philippines. In January 2013 two friends and I packed our backpacks and boarded a plane to Manila, Philippines. Our Philippine destinations included:

Manila - we only spent our first night in the Philippines and some time between our different flights in the capital. After one year of living in rural South Korea our first priority in Manila was to find some western food, and we were not disappointed. If you’ve been in Asia for a while, and you’re craving something that tastes closer to home, pay the Mall of Asia in Manila a visit.

Puerto Princesa, Palawan - here you’ll find one of the recently appointed New 7 Natural Wonders of the World, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River. It is definitely an amazing geological site, but as a tourist destination it is a little underwhelming. One waits for a very long time to get a spot in a canoe to navigate this underground river, and then you realise that being on an underground river, you’re surrounded by pitch black darkness. You’re unable to see anything other than what the tour guide points out with the spotlight. There are a couple of creatively named rock formations, and the guides are extremely witty and entertaining, but if you are short on time, you should much rather spend your time in the pristine ocean and beautiful reefs around the island.

El Nido - from Puerto Princesa it’s a six hour minibus ride on the aptly named “Abortion Road”; and believe you me the going is as rough as the name suggests. The final destination, however, is worth the whole rocky way. So take your motion sickness pills and skip your breakfast, but don’t skip El Nido. It is to this day my favorite place in all of Asia. I’ve heard that you could take a boat to El Nido as well, but weather is unpredicatable, and even a medium strength wind could make for far rougher traveling than the minibus ride. El Nido is known for its pristine beaches, beautiful lime stone islands and the fact that it’s not quite as commercial yet. There are various day tours that leaves from the main beach each day, and every single one of these trips is worth every penny. The water is crystal clear, there are beautiful reefs with plenty of colorful fish and the locals and tour guides are super hospitable. Scooters are also available to rent, at very affordable prices, to explore the beaches and sites nearby.

Boracay - is probably the best known and most popular destination in the Philippines, with good reason. With powder white beaches, idilic palm trees, sailboats, beautiful blue waves, and breathtaking sunsets, it has paradise written all over it. Let me just reiterate, the sunsets are incomparable! There are also a lot of activities to choose from, day and night, as the island never sleeps. If you do prefer some sleep, make sure you book accommodations a little while away from the main action. The downside to Boracay is that with popularity comes commercialization and big crowds of tourists that stream there each day. I will however not let that discourage me from having a slice of this paradise, just make sure you book somewhere more remote during your trip to balance it out.

It also has to be said that Filipino cuisine does not disappoint. Their roasted pork, chicken and fish dishes are superb, and even something that I had to learn to make myself since I crave it frequently. Oh, and who can forget about the wide variety of exotic fruits to choose from, it will leave you in awe. The best part is that at the price that you can acquire them, you can afford to try them all!

 Apart from the breathtaking beauty, and the mouthwatering dishes, one has to give credit to the beautiful people of the Philippines. Even after traveling to many other countries, and returning to the Philippines on a second trip, I have not changed my mind, Filipinos are simply amazing! If you like traveling to a country and meeting the locals, and feeling at home amongst them, the Philippines will deliver. To give my own account, while we were in El Nido we found a cozy laid back bar to wind down in every night. They had an open mic night, every day of the week, and while we were there, the same musicians performed each time. We requested songs and without any hesitation they performed, oldies and current hits, flawlessly. By the second night they announced our arrival over the mic and dedicated a song to us. They also hung out with us after they had finished. On our third night they invited us to kayak and go camping with them on a nearby uninhabited island, not as clients, but as friends. After only four days in El Nido, I felt like a regular at every store, fruit stand, juice bar, restaurant or bar that went to, such was the hospitality and service.

Do yourself a favour and travel to the Philippines. Explore as much of the beautiful nation as possible, but do not neglect getting to know the amazing people that call it home. It is more fun in the Philippines!

____________________________________________________________

Argonaut Island (Ulleung-do)

(English follows the pictures)

____________________________________________________________________

Ulleung Eiland

Laat ek begin deur te sê Ulleung eiland is ’n merkwaardige bestemming. As jy die tyd het, en veral as jy jouself in Korea bevind oor die somer vir ’n geruime tyd, is dit absoluut die moeite werd om te besoek. 

Ulleung is ’n vulkaniese eiland met dramatiese rots-landskappe, pragtige mistige woude, en die kraterlandskap met laslaplanderye, strome en tradisionele plaashuisies is asemrowend mooi. Die hele kus is ’n bewys van die vulkaniese oorsprong van die eiland, met ongelooflike rotsformasies, versteende kolomme, grotte en tonnels. Boonop is die eiland omring met ongelooflike deursigtige donkerblou water, met rots swemgate en wemelende seelewe. Pasop net vir die see egels.

Ulleung is in die See van Japan, of die Oos-see soos die Koreane dit verkies, omtrent 120 km vanaf die ooskus van Suid Korea en het in die Weste bekend gestaan as die Argonaut eiland. Dit is die naaste bewoonde eiland en hawe aan die omstrede eiland bekend as Dokdo (Koreans) of Takeshima (Japanees), in die Weste bekend as Liancourt Rocks. Japan en Korea eis albei die twee rotse as hul gebied. My argument is dat dit nader aan Korea is, met meer Koreaanse besoekers dus… Dit daar gelaat. Wees net voorbereid dat as jy voet op die eiland wil sit, jy ’n verklaring gaan onderteken waarin jy erken dat Dokdo deel van Suid Korea is.

Uiteraard is Ulleung die perfekte bestemming vir staptoere, met gereelde geleenthede om bietjie af te koel in die swemgate. Ons het by die hawe begin en die eiland deurkruis. Sodoende stap jy die buitekant van die vulkaan uit, stap jy deur die mistige woude teen die hange af tot binne in die krater, en deurkruis jy die krater met sy unieke terrein. Hier het jy ook die opsie om eiesoortige wildegroente-disse te eet, en tuisgemaakte ryswyn (makgeolli) te geniet. Jy kan ’n aand in die krater spandeer, of een van die voertuig-paaie uitneem tot by die naaste bushalte en uiteindelik jou akkommodasie. 

Byna die hele kus van die eiland is ook ontwikkel met staproetes, so jy kan die volle omtrek van die eiland stap. Daar is bruë waar nodig, trappe om jou teen die styltes uit te help, natuurlik-gevormde tonnels wat roetes verbind, en stellasies in die kranse ingeslaan sodat jy die adrenalien van meters bo klotsende golwe stap kan ervaar. Daar is ook busse wat eenrigting om die hele eiland ry so jy kan op enige punt ’n roete na die hoofpad uitstap, en dit volg tot by die eerste bushalte, opklim en by jou bestemming uitkom. Wees net bewus van die busdienste se afsnytye.

Dan is daar die toere na Dokdo. Dit is ’n patriotiese tog, wat byna elke patriotiese Koreaan ten minste eenkeer in hul lewens sal wil maak. Dit is egter nie so maklik om te doen nie, en weens seetoestande, vaal amper meer pogings as wat slaag. Beplan dalk dus om die die twee rotse te gaan besoek, maar moet nie te verbaas wees as jou toer gekanselleer word nie. Kostes sal tot sover my kennis strek ten volle terugbetaal word indien dit die geval is. Dit was die geval toe ek gepoog het om hulle te besoek.

As jy belangstel om Ulleung te besoek het jy die opsie om dit saam ’n georganiseerde groep te doen, dis wat ek gedoen het, of self te beplan. Vir die groepe, sluit graag op Facebook aan by ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, 'When In Korea’ of ‘Adventure Korea’, van die groepe is ek die vertroudste met die eerste groep, en ek weet hulle beplan jaarliks ’n langnaweek toer na die eiland. Kostes met die groepe bly relatief laag, als is vir jou beplan, en jy het heelwat keuses van aktiwiteite en vrye teuels om deel te neem aan wat jy wil. Jou tyd op die eiland is net effens beperk.

As die groepe se datums nie vir jou werk nie, of jy wil vir ’n langer duur gaan, moet nie bekommer nie, dit is heel doenbaar. Eerstens moet jy kyk na beskikbaarheid van plek op die veerboot tussen Donghae Terminaal en Ulleung eiland. As jy belangstel om Dokdo te besoek, sal jy uiteraard ook die beskikbaarheid van toere vanaf Ulleung na Dokdo moet bepaal. Sodra jy beskikbare datums het, bespreek maar en moet nie te lank uitstel nie - soos genoem is dit ’n gewilde bestemming vir Koreane, en daar is net soveel plek op die veerbote, toere en gastehuise.

As jou bootkaartjies bespreek is moet akkommodasie jou volgende fokus wees. Soek vir Ulleung Minbaks (Huurkamers), Ulleung Pensions (Huurhuise), hotelle of gastehuise, of beplan om ’n tent te neem en doen navorsing oor kampterreine en geriewe. Bespreek! Onthou, toegang is beperk. Kry gerus die hulp van ’n Koreaanse vriend, kollega of kennis in om die hele proses te vergemaklik - of selfs beter: nooi jou Koreaanse pelle (chingus) saam.

Die laaste bietjie logistiek is net om jou buskaartjie van waarookal jy is tot by Donghae terminaal te bespreek. Ek doen dit gewoonlik in persoon by die bus termine vanwaar ek gaan vertrek, omtrent so week voor my vertrekdatum. Kry jou vriende bymekaar, pak julle rugsakke en gaan verken Ulleung Eiland!

_________________________________________________________________________________

Foto's / Photos

Die getekende verklaring / The signed declaration

Die hawe / The port

Uitsig vanaf die vulkaan se piek / View from the volcano peak

Mistige woude / Misty Forest

Krater landskap / Crater landscape

Kus staproete / Coastal hiking route

Natuurlike tonnel / Natural tunnel

Blou oseaan / Blue ocean

Kus uitsigte / Coastal views

Vat 'n dip / Take a dip

Verfrissend / Refreshing

_________________________________________________________________________________

Ulleung Island

Let me just start by saying that Ulleung Island is an amazing destination. If you have the time, especially if you’re staying in Korea for a longer period of time, it is absolutely worth the visit. 

Ulleung is a volcanic island, and with dramatic rock landscapes, mysterious misty woodlands, and the fertile crater basin covered in patchy crops and farmlands, streams, and traditional farmsteads it is breathtakingly beautiful. The whole coast is proof of the volcanic origins of the island, with incredible rock formations, petrified columns, caves and tunnels. In addition the whole island is surrounded by transparent, deep-blue oceans, rock pools ideal for swimming, and plentiful underwater life. Just look out for the sea urchins.

Ulleung is in the sea of Japan, or as the Koreans prefer - the East Sea. It’s about 120 km off the east coast of South Korea and used to be known to westerners as Argonaut Island. It is the closest inhabited island and port to the controversial island known as Dokdo to Koreans, Takeshima to the Japanese, and Liancourt Rocks to westerners. Japan and Korea both claim the rocks to be their territory, the dispute has been unresolved for decades. My argument would be that it’s closer to Korea, has more Korean visitors, thus… But nothing’s that simple. Just be prepared that if you want to set foot on land at Ulleung Island, you’ll have to sign a document stating that you agree that Dokdo is part of Korean Territory.

Naturally Ulleung is the perfect destination for hiking, with its beautiful scenes and frequent opportunities to cool down in rock pools. We started at the port and traversed the island in a semi-straight line. By doing this you’ll hike up the steep volcanic exterior, walk down toward the crater basin through misty forests and cross the crater with its unique terrain. There you’ll have the opportunity to try local wild mountain-vegetable dishes and enjoy homemade rice wine (makgeolli). You could spend the night in the crater, or take one of the main roads out of the basin to a busstop, and catch the bus to your overnight accommodation. 

Added infrastructure has made the whole coast of the island accessible to hikers, so if you had enough time, you could circumnavigate Ulleung and take in all of its vistas. There are bridges where necessary, steps and rails to help you in very steep spots, naturally lava-formed tunnels to connect routes, and platforms fixed to the sides of cliffs, high above crashing waves directly beneath your feet, for your thrill and pleasure. There are busses that drive circular routes around the island, so you can follow an extraction route to the main road at any point, make your way to the nearest busstop and catch a bus to your desired destination. Just be aware of the bus service's cutoff time.

Furthermore there is also the option of doing a tour to Dokdo. It is a trip that every patriotic Korean wil make at least once in their lifetime. It is however not that easy to complete, and due to sea and weather conditions almost more attempts fail than succeed. Plan on taking the tour to the two rocks, but don’t be too surprised if your tour gets cancelled. To my knowledge all costs are refundable if it does. That was the case when we attempted to visit Dokdo.

If you are interested in visiting Ulleung island, you have the option of doing it with an organised group - that’s what I did, or planning it by yourself. For group tours, go onto Facebook and join ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, ‘When in Korea’, and ‘Adventure Korea’. I’m most familiar with Seoul Hiking Group, and I am sure that they plan a longweekend trip to the Island every year. Costs with these groups remain relatively low, everything is planned for you, but you have a lot of activity options and leeway. Your time on the island is just a little limited.

If the groups’ dates don’t fit your schedule, or you intend to spend more time on the island, don’t fret, it is completely possible to plan it yourself. First of all you should look at the availability of seats on the ferry between Donghae port and Ulleung Island. If you are interested in visiting Dokdo, you’ll naturally have to look at tour availability for that as well. As soon as you find dates that fit your schedule - book! As mentioned, it is a popular destination among Koreans, and there is limited room on the ferry, tours and guesthouses.

If your tickets for the boats are booked, accommodation is your next priority. Search online for Ulleung Minbaks (Rooms for rent), Ulleung Pensions (Houses for rent), hotels and guesthouses, or plan on taking a tent and do research on campsites. Once again - reserve! Remember, access is limited. Don’t hesitate to ask a Korean friend, colleague, or acquaintance for help - or even better: invite your Korean pals (chingus) to join you.

Krater bodem / Crater basin

The last logistical task you need to complete, is buying a bus ticket to Donghae terminal from wherever you will be departing. I usually do it in person at the bus terminal of my departure, a week or two prior to my departure. Get your friends together, pack your backpacks, and go explore Ulleung Island!