Argonaut Island (Ulleung-do)

(English follows the pictures)

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Ulleung Eiland

Laat ek begin deur te sê Ulleung eiland is ’n merkwaardige bestemming. As jy die tyd het, en veral as jy jouself in Korea bevind oor die somer vir ’n geruime tyd, is dit absoluut die moeite werd om te besoek. 

Ulleung is ’n vulkaniese eiland met dramatiese rots-landskappe, pragtige mistige woude, en die kraterlandskap met laslaplanderye, strome en tradisionele plaashuisies is asemrowend mooi. Die hele kus is ’n bewys van die vulkaniese oorsprong van die eiland, met ongelooflike rotsformasies, versteende kolomme, grotte en tonnels. Boonop is die eiland omring met ongelooflike deursigtige donkerblou water, met rots swemgate en wemelende seelewe. Pasop net vir die see egels.

Ulleung is in die See van Japan, of die Oos-see soos die Koreane dit verkies, omtrent 120 km vanaf die ooskus van Suid Korea en het in die Weste bekend gestaan as die Argonaut eiland. Dit is die naaste bewoonde eiland en hawe aan die omstrede eiland bekend as Dokdo (Koreans) of Takeshima (Japanees), in die Weste bekend as Liancourt Rocks. Japan en Korea eis albei die twee rotse as hul gebied. My argument is dat dit nader aan Korea is, met meer Koreaanse besoekers dus… Dit daar gelaat. Wees net voorbereid dat as jy voet op die eiland wil sit, jy ’n verklaring gaan onderteken waarin jy erken dat Dokdo deel van Suid Korea is.

Uiteraard is Ulleung die perfekte bestemming vir staptoere, met gereelde geleenthede om bietjie af te koel in die swemgate. Ons het by die hawe begin en die eiland deurkruis. Sodoende stap jy die buitekant van die vulkaan uit, stap jy deur die mistige woude teen die hange af tot binne in die krater, en deurkruis jy die krater met sy unieke terrein. Hier het jy ook die opsie om eiesoortige wildegroente-disse te eet, en tuisgemaakte ryswyn (makgeolli) te geniet. Jy kan ’n aand in die krater spandeer, of een van die voertuig-paaie uitneem tot by die naaste bushalte en uiteindelik jou akkommodasie. 

Byna die hele kus van die eiland is ook ontwikkel met staproetes, so jy kan die volle omtrek van die eiland stap. Daar is bruë waar nodig, trappe om jou teen die styltes uit te help, natuurlik-gevormde tonnels wat roetes verbind, en stellasies in die kranse ingeslaan sodat jy die adrenalien van meters bo klotsende golwe stap kan ervaar. Daar is ook busse wat eenrigting om die hele eiland ry so jy kan op enige punt ’n roete na die hoofpad uitstap, en dit volg tot by die eerste bushalte, opklim en by jou bestemming uitkom. Wees net bewus van die busdienste se afsnytye.

Dan is daar die toere na Dokdo. Dit is ’n patriotiese tog, wat byna elke patriotiese Koreaan ten minste eenkeer in hul lewens sal wil maak. Dit is egter nie so maklik om te doen nie, en weens seetoestande, vaal amper meer pogings as wat slaag. Beplan dalk dus om die die twee rotse te gaan besoek, maar moet nie te verbaas wees as jou toer gekanselleer word nie. Kostes sal tot sover my kennis strek ten volle terugbetaal word indien dit die geval is. Dit was die geval toe ek gepoog het om hulle te besoek.

As jy belangstel om Ulleung te besoek het jy die opsie om dit saam ’n georganiseerde groep te doen, dis wat ek gedoen het, of self te beplan. Vir die groepe, sluit graag op Facebook aan by ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, 'When In Korea’ of ‘Adventure Korea’, van die groepe is ek die vertroudste met die eerste groep, en ek weet hulle beplan jaarliks ’n langnaweek toer na die eiland. Kostes met die groepe bly relatief laag, als is vir jou beplan, en jy het heelwat keuses van aktiwiteite en vrye teuels om deel te neem aan wat jy wil. Jou tyd op die eiland is net effens beperk.

As die groepe se datums nie vir jou werk nie, of jy wil vir ’n langer duur gaan, moet nie bekommer nie, dit is heel doenbaar. Eerstens moet jy kyk na beskikbaarheid van plek op die veerboot tussen Donghae Terminaal en Ulleung eiland. As jy belangstel om Dokdo te besoek, sal jy uiteraard ook die beskikbaarheid van toere vanaf Ulleung na Dokdo moet bepaal. Sodra jy beskikbare datums het, bespreek maar en moet nie te lank uitstel nie - soos genoem is dit ’n gewilde bestemming vir Koreane, en daar is net soveel plek op die veerbote, toere en gastehuise.

As jou bootkaartjies bespreek is moet akkommodasie jou volgende fokus wees. Soek vir Ulleung Minbaks (Huurkamers), Ulleung Pensions (Huurhuise), hotelle of gastehuise, of beplan om ’n tent te neem en doen navorsing oor kampterreine en geriewe. Bespreek! Onthou, toegang is beperk. Kry gerus die hulp van ’n Koreaanse vriend, kollega of kennis in om die hele proses te vergemaklik - of selfs beter: nooi jou Koreaanse pelle (chingus) saam.

Die laaste bietjie logistiek is net om jou buskaartjie van waarookal jy is tot by Donghae terminaal te bespreek. Ek doen dit gewoonlik in persoon by die bus termine vanwaar ek gaan vertrek, omtrent so week voor my vertrekdatum. Kry jou vriende bymekaar, pak julle rugsakke en gaan verken Ulleung Eiland!

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Foto's / Photos

Die getekende verklaring / The signed declaration

Die hawe / The port

Uitsig vanaf die vulkaan se piek / View from the volcano peak

Mistige woude / Misty Forest

Krater landskap / Crater landscape

Kus staproete / Coastal hiking route

Natuurlike tonnel / Natural tunnel

Blou oseaan / Blue ocean

Kus uitsigte / Coastal views

Vat 'n dip / Take a dip

Verfrissend / Refreshing

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Ulleung Island

Let me just start by saying that Ulleung Island is an amazing destination. If you have the time, especially if you’re staying in Korea for a longer period of time, it is absolutely worth the visit. 

Ulleung is a volcanic island, and with dramatic rock landscapes, mysterious misty woodlands, and the fertile crater basin covered in patchy crops and farmlands, streams, and traditional farmsteads it is breathtakingly beautiful. The whole coast is proof of the volcanic origins of the island, with incredible rock formations, petrified columns, caves and tunnels. In addition the whole island is surrounded by transparent, deep-blue oceans, rock pools ideal for swimming, and plentiful underwater life. Just look out for the sea urchins.

Ulleung is in the sea of Japan, or as the Koreans prefer - the East Sea. It’s about 120 km off the east coast of South Korea and used to be known to westerners as Argonaut Island. It is the closest inhabited island and port to the controversial island known as Dokdo to Koreans, Takeshima to the Japanese, and Liancourt Rocks to westerners. Japan and Korea both claim the rocks to be their territory, the dispute has been unresolved for decades. My argument would be that it’s closer to Korea, has more Korean visitors, thus… But nothing’s that simple. Just be prepared that if you want to set foot on land at Ulleung Island, you’ll have to sign a document stating that you agree that Dokdo is part of Korean Territory.

Naturally Ulleung is the perfect destination for hiking, with its beautiful scenes and frequent opportunities to cool down in rock pools. We started at the port and traversed the island in a semi-straight line. By doing this you’ll hike up the steep volcanic exterior, walk down toward the crater basin through misty forests and cross the crater with its unique terrain. There you’ll have the opportunity to try local wild mountain-vegetable dishes and enjoy homemade rice wine (makgeolli). You could spend the night in the crater, or take one of the main roads out of the basin to a busstop, and catch the bus to your overnight accommodation. 

Added infrastructure has made the whole coast of the island accessible to hikers, so if you had enough time, you could circumnavigate Ulleung and take in all of its vistas. There are bridges where necessary, steps and rails to help you in very steep spots, naturally lava-formed tunnels to connect routes, and platforms fixed to the sides of cliffs, high above crashing waves directly beneath your feet, for your thrill and pleasure. There are busses that drive circular routes around the island, so you can follow an extraction route to the main road at any point, make your way to the nearest busstop and catch a bus to your desired destination. Just be aware of the bus service's cutoff time.

Furthermore there is also the option of doing a tour to Dokdo. It is a trip that every patriotic Korean wil make at least once in their lifetime. It is however not that easy to complete, and due to sea and weather conditions almost more attempts fail than succeed. Plan on taking the tour to the two rocks, but don’t be too surprised if your tour gets cancelled. To my knowledge all costs are refundable if it does. That was the case when we attempted to visit Dokdo.

If you are interested in visiting Ulleung island, you have the option of doing it with an organised group - that’s what I did, or planning it by yourself. For group tours, go onto Facebook and join ‘Seoul Hiking Group’, ‘When in Korea’, and ‘Adventure Korea’. I’m most familiar with Seoul Hiking Group, and I am sure that they plan a longweekend trip to the Island every year. Costs with these groups remain relatively low, everything is planned for you, but you have a lot of activity options and leeway. Your time on the island is just a little limited.

If the groups’ dates don’t fit your schedule, or you intend to spend more time on the island, don’t fret, it is completely possible to plan it yourself. First of all you should look at the availability of seats on the ferry between Donghae port and Ulleung Island. If you are interested in visiting Dokdo, you’ll naturally have to look at tour availability for that as well. As soon as you find dates that fit your schedule - book! As mentioned, it is a popular destination among Koreans, and there is limited room on the ferry, tours and guesthouses.

If your tickets for the boats are booked, accommodation is your next priority. Search online for Ulleung Minbaks (Rooms for rent), Ulleung Pensions (Houses for rent), hotels and guesthouses, or plan on taking a tent and do research on campsites. Once again - reserve! Remember, access is limited. Don’t hesitate to ask a Korean friend, colleague, or acquaintance for help - or even better: invite your Korean pals (chingus) to join you.

Krater bodem / Crater basin

The last logistical task you need to complete, is buying a bus ticket to Donghae terminal from wherever you will be departing. I usually do it in person at the bus terminal of my departure, a week or two prior to my departure. Get your friends together, pack your backpacks, and go explore Ulleung Island!

Kampvuur, Karaoke en Knoffel. / Bonfires, Jukeboxes and Garlic.

(Scroll down for English)

My volgende avontuur in Suid Korea was weereens na ’n eiland aan die suide van die land. Vir hierdie spesifieke naweek is ek toe saam met ’n stapgroep na die eiland Namhae toe. 

Ek het heelwat naweke saam met die stapgroep deurgebring. Dit was ’n baie gerieflike, en bekostigbare reëling. Vrydae aande het ons 23:00 bymekaar gekom en in die bus geklim. Ons het maar almal op die bus geslaap tot ons by die bestemming aankom, en dan het ons omtrent dadelik begin stap sodat ons voor sonop op die een of ander uitkyk punt kan wees. Sondae aande het ons gewoonlik skuins voor tien weer by die bushalte gestop, net betyds om die laaste moltrein huis toe te vang.

Die tog Namhae toe was geen uitsondering nie. Ons het soos gewoonte donkeroggend daar aangekom, ons padkos gekry en waterbottels gegryp en begin stap. Teen sonop was ons in ’n grot teen die hoogste berg op die eiland, en het ons ’n ongelooflike uitsig oor die eiland en strand gehad. Die res van die dag was vol avonture soos roei op die see, ontspan op die strand en frisbee speel. 

So tussen die speel moes ons ook ’n plekkie in die kampterrein gaan uitsoek om ons tente op te slaan, waar ons die aand sou deurbring. Ek het die perfekte plekkie gekry waar my tent lekker onder ’n boom sou koelte kry, sodat die son my nie sou uitbak nie. Dit was ook nie vêr van die ablusieblok of hoofstrand af nie. Ek wens net ek het die verdekselse ding in die voetpad naby my tent raakgesien!

Die aand het dinge begin interessant raak met ’n groot kampvuur op die strand, ’n bietjie malvalekker-braai en, soos wat mens seker maar kan verwag, heelwat drank wat gereeld aangevul sou word. Ons was nie die enigste groep op die strand wat ’n partytjie gegooi het nie, mens kon elke paar meter nog ’n groep sien wat met identiese aktiwiteite besig was. 

Teen omtrent middernag het die feestelikheid maar vir my bietjie handuitgeruk, en ek het besluit om tent toe te keer. Die kampplek was stil, en al die tente het amper leeg voorgekom. Ek het sommer vinnig ingesluimer, dit sou ’n lekker nagrus wees. Of sou dit? 

Dit was omtrent twee uur die oggend wat ek wakker geskrik het. Iewers het Koreaanse musiek kliphard geblêr, en ’n paar mansstemme kon duidelik gehoor word wat dronkerig saam mompel en op al die refreine kliphard uitjil, voor hul weer terugkeer na ’n onverstaanbare mompelrige geraas. Daar was geen manier dat ek sou slaap met die geraas nie.

Ek het besluit om te gaan ondersoek instel. En dis toé dat ek die verdekselse ding raaksien. Net daar in die voetpaadjie tussen my tent en die ablusieblok was ’n buitelug blêrkas, met net 5 liedjiekeuses, maar massiewe klanktoestel. Die hele ding lyk nie op eerste oogopslag soos ’n blêrkas nie, maar net soos ’n kampterrein ornament, slegs daar vir estetiese waarde. Voor die blêrkas het 4 middeljarige Koreaanse mans hulself bevind. Hul het al 5 die liedjies deurgespeel en saam geblêr, terwyl ek als wat ek kon oor my ore druk om die marteling van hul samesang te verlig. Die manne het darem na die laaste liedjie weer tot ruste gekom.

Ek het eventueel weer aan die slaap geraak en het nou net gehoop dat niemand anders die ware funksie van die ornament ontdek nie. Tevergeefs! Dit was net na sonop, of so het dit gevoel, dat ’n klompie jong kinders ’n speletjie daarvan gemaak het om ’n liedjie te kies en dan weg te hardloop en weg te kruip, totdat die liedjie verby is en hul weer die knoppie kon druk.

Slaaptyd was amptelik verby, met die kombinasie van dié geraas, die son wat uitkom en ander kampeerders wat ook begin rondskarrel, sou ek definitief nie weer aan die slaap raak nie. Ek het maar voor die strandkafeetjie gaan sit en die een koffie na die ander ingeryg terwyl ek vir die lae brandertjies kyk en probeer beter voel oor my min slaap. Ek het ook maar ’n roomys vir ontbyt geëet.

Sondag het ons toerleier besluit om ons na ’n baie spesiale fees te neem. Namhae eiland se ekonomie is hoofsaaklik afhanklik van toerisme en landbou. Waarvoor hul die bekendste is, is inderdaad knoffel, dus hou hul die jaarlikse Namhae Knoffel Fees. Nou as jy dit nog nie kon raai nie, knoffel is ’n groot ding! Dis nie net sommer ’n geurmiddel vir hierdie mense nie. Daar is ’n spesiale knoffel navorsingseenheid opgerig op die eiland, en dit was juis waar die fees gehou is. Daar was allerhande knoffelary beskikbaar; van die gewone gedroogde knoffel, gekerfde knoffel en knoffel poeier, tot uitstallings van knoffel rangskikings en kinderkuns rondom die knoffel tema, tot knoffel tee, knoffel soda, knoffel jellie en knoffel in sjokolade. Bisar! Ek het net gehoop dat iemand nie ’n bondel gedroogde knoffel in ons bus wou terugneem Seoul toe nie.

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Die Grot / The Cave

'n Tempel naby die grot / A temple near the cave

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My next adventure in South Korea was also to an island in the south of the country. This specific weekend I went with a hiking group to Namhae island.

I actually spent plenty of weekends with the hiking group. It was a convenient, and affordable way to travel. We would meet at the pick-up point at 11pm on Friday nights, and board a bus. We would sleep on the bus, and arrive at our destination early the next morning, and almost immediately start hiking up to some kind of vantage point for sunrise. Then on Sundays we would get back to the city just in time to catch the last subway back home.

The trip to Namhae was no exception. As was the tradition we arrived in Namhae before sunrise, got some snacks, grabbed our water bottles, and started our ascent. By sunrise we had arrived at a cave in the highest mountain on the island. It had an amazing view of the island and coast. The rest of the day was spent kayaking, relaxing on the beach and playing ultimate frisbee.

In our free time we also had to find a spot in the campsite to put up our tents for the night. I thought I had found the perfect spot, conveniently located in the shade of a big pine tree, relatively close to the ablution block, and not far from the main beach. I just wish I had taken notice of the darn feature installed in the footpath near my tent.

That evening we had a big bonfire on the beach, and things started to get interesting with all the bottles of beer and cheep wine and spirits making their way to the party, stock never seemed to run out, as people made top-up runs to the convenience store frequently. We weren’t the only group on the beach either, and every few meters a group of people could be found busy with similar activities. Pretty soon all these parties and groups started spilling into each other and it became one big drunken nest.

At about midnight it became an uncomfortable gathering, with open fires, drunk people, egos fueled by alcohol, etc. and I decided to make my way to my tent. The camp site was quiet, and all the tents almost seemed deserted. In bed by a decent-ish hour, I almost immediately dozed off. Surely I would be well rested the next morning, or would I?

It was about 2am when I woke up in shock. Somewhere a Korean song was blaring out loudly, and some men could be heard drunkenly mumbling with to the tune, belching out the choruses, before returning to drunken muttering. There was no way I would be able to sleep in this racket.

I decided to investigate, and that’s when I so the damn thing! Halfway between my tent and the ablution block, the feature surrounded by the four middle-aged Korean men, turned out to be an outdoor Jukebox. It only had a choice of 5 songs, but boy did it have volume. The whole thing didn’t look like a Jukebox at first glance, it simply looked like a campsite decorative feature. The 4 men played all five songs, and sang along as loudly as they could, while I tried my best to block the tormenting sound from my ears and get back to sleep. After the last song finished it got quiet again and I could try to sleep again.

Eventually I managed to fall asleep, and would manage to sleep in a little if no-one else discovered the true purpose of the decorative campsite ornament. But that was perhaps too naïve a hope. It must’ve been right after sunrise when a couple of mischievous children started playing a game of press the button and go hide, just to repeat the game after the song had finished.

It was evident that there was no more sleep to be had, with a combination of the noise from the boombox, the sun brightly shining into my tent, and the other campers starting to scurry about, I would definitely not have been able to fall asleep again. I went and sat on a plastic chair by a plastic table in front of the convenience store next to the beach, drinking the one convenience store instant coffee after the other, looking into the small waves, and trying to cheer myself up despite the lack of sleep. I also ate an ice cream sandwich for breakfast that morning, because I needed all the help I could get to seem alive. Not a happy camper!

On Sunday our trip leader decided to spoil us by taking us to a very special festival. Economically Namhae Island depends on tourism and agriculture. In fact, its most famous produce is none other than - garlic. For that reason they also annually host the Namhae Garlic Festival. Now if you haven’t guessed it yet, garlic is a big deal! There is a special garlic research centre on the island, and that is exactly where the festival was held. One could find the usual garlic fare, like dried garlic, crushed garlic and garlic flakes; the more unusual products like garlic tea, garlic soda, garlic jellies, and chocolate covered garlic; and then there were also the really bizarre garlic bouquets and arrangements, garlic photo benches and children's garlic themed artworks. I just hoped that no one wanted to take a bundle of tried garlic on the bus with us back to Seoul.